CONTENTS (As in the original volume)


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CHAPTER I. Trip Across The Plains.

Arrival in Independence.— The Mail.—Captain Reynolds.—Starting and Detention.—Final Departure.—First Night.—Breakfast.—Lone Elm.—Shawnee Squaw.—First Camp.—Prairie on Fire.—Council Grove.—Appearance of Prairie.— Departure from the Grove.—First Night out.—First Buffalo seen.—Indian Fright.—Pawnee Fork.—Accident.— Buffalo Chips.—Herd of Buffalo.—Camp on the Arkansas.—Crossing.—Antelopes.—Jornada.— The Padre.. Page 13

CHAPTER II. Trip Across The Plains—Concluded.

Camp at Sand Creek.—First Buffalo killed.—Cimmarron River.—Indian Fright.—Padre and his Pistols.—Mishap.—Country.— Stranger's Grave.—Flap-jacks.—Prairie Dogs: their Habits—Appearance.— Rock Creek.—Geological Formation.—Buffalo Hunters.— Murder of Mrs. White.—Mountains in View.—Murder of a Mail Party.—Fort Union.—Las Vegas.—Tecalota.— Old Pecos.—Ruins of Pueblo.—Cañon.—Arrival at Santa Fé.. 36

CHAPTER III. Historical Sketch Of New Mexico.

Country little known.—Situation.—First Knowledge of Spaniards.—Baca and Companions.—Their Adventures.— Negro goes to Cibola.—Nizza.—Coronado's Expedition.— Arrives at Cibola.—Tignex.—Cicuyé.—Querechos.—Quivira.—Fate of Expedition.—People of the Country.—Route of Coronado.—Situation of Cibola.—Espejo.—His Description of the People.—Oñate colonizes the Country.—His Petition and Grants.— Treatment of Natives.—Rebellion of 1680.—Popé.—Santa Fé taken.—Retreat of Spaniards.—Otermin attempts a Reconquest.—Fails.—Bargas.—Revolution quelled and Peace restored.. 57


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CHAPTER IV. Historical Sketch Of New Mexico—Concluded.

Result of Rebellion of 1680.—Interval of Peace.—War with Camanches.—Conspiracy of 1814. —Nabajos killed at Jemez.—Expulsion Law.—Revolution of 1837. —The Cause of it.—Plan of Rebels.—Authorities defeated.—Death of Governor Perez.—Cruel Conduct of Indians.—Rebel Governor.—General Armijo.—General Kearney marches for New Mexico.—Country conquered.—Revolution of 1847. —The Leaders and their Plans.—First Conspiracy discovered.—The People taking up Arms.—Revolution put down.—Territory organized.—Organic Law.—Mexican Courts.—Baston de Justicia.—Fueros.—Will New Mexico become a Slave State? —History of State Government in New Mexico.. Page 81

CHAPTER V. The Pueblo Indians.

Pueblos most interesting Class of Inhabitants.—Origin of Name.—Religion.—Number of Villages.—Their Names.—Moqui Villages.—Different Nations and Languages.—Tagnos Nation extinct.—Did the Spaniards reclaim these Indians?—Cibola and the People.—Tignex and Jemez.—Cicuyé and the Buildings.—Pueblo Indians same People the Spaniards found in the Country.—First Decree of Charles V.—Subsequent Decrees.—Title of Indians to Land.—Ruins of Pueblos.—Abo. —Quarra.—Quivira.—Other Rains.—Scarcity of Water.—Cause of Villages deserted.—Wager of Battle.—Who are the Pueblo Indians?—Opinion of Mr. Gallatin.—Are they Aztecs?—The Question an interesting one.. 114

CHAPTER VI. The Pueblo Indians—Concluded.

History of Pueblo Indians.—New Religion forced upon them.—Attempts at Rebellion in 1640 and 1650. —Their Failure.—First general Conspiracy.—Rebellion of 1680. —How organized.—Popé. —His Plans.—Time of Rising.—Plot discovered.—Indians take up Arms.—Santa Fé besieged.—Spaniards retreat.—Country reconquered.—Population.—Their Buildings.—Estufa.—Government.—Officers.—Confirmation of Governor.—Council of Wise Men.—The Cachina.—How the Land is held.—Weapons.—Dress.—Arts.—Food.—Not Citizens.—Sacred Fire.—The Serpent.—Tradition of the Eagle.—Green Corn Dance.—Vocabulary of Words.. 132


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CHAPTER VII. Santa Fé, With Some Account Of The Manners And Customs Of The People.

Situation.—How built.—Houses.—Public Buildings.—Sight-seeing.—Legislative Anecdote.—Burro.—Cock-fighting.—Mexican Family.—Furniture.—Tortillas and Frijoles.—Reception.—Manners.—Smoking.—Leave-taking.—Gambling.—Monte.—Señora Barcelo.. Page 160

CHAPTER VIII. Manners And Customs Of The People—Continued.

Correr el Gallo.—El Coleo.—Costume.—Mounted Caballero.—Horse Furniture.—Education.—Agriculture.—Soil.—Acequias. —How Water distributed.—Land cultivated.—Mode of Cultivation.—Plow.—Productions.—Pasturage.—Sheep Grazing.—Goats.—Sale of Animals.—Pack Mules.—Arrieros.—Lazo.. 188

CHAPTER IX. Manners And Customs Of The People—Concluded.

Mechanic Arts.—Carts.—Silversmiths.—Domestic Manufacturers.—Serapes.—Gerga.—Tinajas.—Mexican People.—Intermarriage with Indians.—Character.—Courage. —Morals.—Vice.—Cause of Prostitution.—Carrying Weapons.—Beggars.—The Beggar and Bull.—Religion. —Superstition.—Saints.—Diezmos.—Marraige Fees, etc.—Revenue of the Bishop.—Priests.—Corruptions of Church.—Peonism. —Law upon the subject -- 211

CHAPTER X. Arrival In Santa Fé.

First Sight of Santa Fé.—Fonda.—Home-sick.—Rev. L. Smith.—Warm Welcome.—Toilet.—Secretary of Territory.—Governor Meriwether.—His Adventures.—Prisoner in Santa Fé.—Discharge.—Trip to Rendezvous.—Winter Quarters.—Strange Indians.—Great Medicine.—The Indians see him.—Fright.—Encounter with Indians.—Prison fell down.—Sworn into Office.—Mr. Cardenas.—Mrs. Wilson.—Indian Outrages.—How Indians should be governed.—Meeting of Legislature.—Log-rolling, etc.—Organization of the Houses.—The two Houses in Session.—Former political Condition, etc.. 234

CHAPTER XI. Winter In Santa Fé.

Feast and Saint Days.—Guadalupe's Day.—Legend of her Advent.—The Story of the Indian.—The Festivities in Santa Fé.—Festivities


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at Guadalupe Hidalgo.—The Crowd.—Church on the Rock.—Services within.—Church of Guadalupe—Its Richness.—Holy Well.—Baile.—Appearance of Room.—Dancing.—"Creature Comforts."—Arrival from California.—Supreme Court.—Mode of Administering Justice.—Entertainment.—Address.—Dedication of Church.—Arrival of Mail.—Anxiety.—Reading of Letters.. page 256

CHAPTER XII. Winter In Santa Fé—Concluded.

Marriage in New Mexico.—Fees.—Courtship.—Spanish Custom.—Advantages of the System.—Mexican Wedding.—Our Arrival.—Ceremony.—Music.—Tamouche.—Appearance.—His Squaw.—Medal.—Indian Doctors.—Failure of Chief to go to Washington.—Legislature adjourns.—Difficulty.—Legislation.—Anecdotes.—Saint Valentine's Day.—All Fool's Day.—Twenty-second of February.—Spring. —Climate.—Weather at Santa Fé.—Dryness of Atmosphere.—Rain.—Inhabitants drenched.—Author drowned out.. 276

CHAPTER XIII. Riding The Circuit.

Duty of United States Attorney.—Arrangements for Travel.—Leave Santa Fé.—Pojuaque Creek.—La Cañada.—Los Luceros.—Crossing the Mountains.—Arrival at Taos.—Baile.—Situation of Taos.—Indian's Bride.—Revolution of 1847. —Court-house and Jail.—Lawyer smoking.—Kiowah.—Excursion to Taos Pueblo.—Kiowah's House. —Deputation of head Men.—Vaccination of Children: how they bore it.—We look at the Village.—Inside of Building.—Estufa.—Invited to Baile.—Fandangos and Music.—What took place at the Baile.—Egg-shells and Cologne.—Kit Carson.—Court adjourned.—We leave Taos.—Geological Formation of the Mountains.—View of the Valley of the Del Norte.—Arrival at Los Luceros.. 300

CHAPTER XIV. Riding The Circuit—Continued.

Leave Los Luceros.—Farmers afield.—Chamita.—Public Houses.—The Pontius Pilate.—The Pilate Family.—Painted Faces.—People and Court-house.—Dinner.—Bed-cover and Table-cloth.—Court in Santa Fé.—Interesting Cases.—Murder for Witchcraft.—The Accused.—Testimony.—Acquittal.—Perjury Case.—Treaty of Guadalupe involved.—How the Question arose.—Record offered in Evidence.—Decision of the Court.—Author's Opinion.—Importance of the Question.—Trip to San Miguel.—The Town.—Texan Prisoners.—Accommodations.—Return to Santa Fé.—Go to Peña Blanca.—The Mesa.—Residence of Mr. Baca.—Dinner.—Food of Mexicans.—Spanish Mill.. 323

CHAPTER XV. Riding The Circuit—Continued.

Passion Week.—Processions.—Leave Santa Fé for Albuquerque.—The Cañon.—Stop at Algadones.—Grape and Wine Culture.—Vintage.—The Country.—Market-people.—Arrive at Albuquerque.—The Town.—Court.—Dinner-party.—Leave for Tomé.—Stop at Mr. Baird's.—Dr. Connelly.—Arrive at Tomé.—The Town.—Host and Dinner.—Court.—The Grand Jury.—Baile.—Start for Socorro.—Sand Storm.—La Hoya.—Supper.—Leave La Hoya.—Cross the River.—Limitar.—General Armijo.—Appearance of the Room.—Leave Limitar.—Smith's Adventures.—His medical Experience.—Arrival at Socorro.—Accommodations.—Mexican Family.. Page 345

CHAPTER XVI. Riding The Circuit—Concluded.

Socorro and Situation.—Court.—Mad Calf.—Religious Meeting.—Warm Spring.—Start for Las Cruces.—Crabb's Ranch.—Fray Cristobal.—The Journey of Death.—Remain in Camp.—Cross the Jornada.—Halt at Robledo.—Doña Ana.—Mr. Thompson.—Fort Fillmore.—Ride to El Paso.—Arrive at El Molino.—Situation.—Judge Hart.—Valley of El Paso.—Wine, etc.—Pacific and Atlantic Railroad.—Town of El Paso.—Visit the Town.—Its Beauty.—Dinner.—Leave El Molino.—Stop at Fort Fillmore.—Major Backus.—Court in Las Cruces.—La Mesilla.—Anecdote.—Music.—Start homeward.—Arrival in Santa Fé.—Author's Experience on the Circuit.—Advantages of the Trip.. 366

CHAPTER XVII. Trip To The Nabajo Country.

Excursion to Nabajo Country.—Leave Santa Fé.—Cross the Del Norte.—Foraging.—Route.—Appearance of Country.—Arrival at Laguna.—The Pueblo.—Montezuma.—Mr. Gorman.—Appearance of the God.—Quivera.—Chained Pig.—Current of Lava.—Formation of Country.—Agua Azul.—Back-bone of Continent.—Fatiguing Drive.—Camp at the Laguna.—Sandstone Formation.—Trap Rock.—Arrival at Fort Defiance.—Situation of Fort.—Laguna Negra.—Time for Council fixed.—General Garland arrives.—Council with Indians.—The Indians.—Treaty formed.—Distribution of Presents.—Scramble.—Some Account of the Nabajos.—Dress.—Character.—The Women.—Government.—Tradition of Origin.. 389


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CHAPTER XVIII. Trip To The Nabajo Country—Concluded.

Religious Belief of the Nabajos.—Woman in the Sun.—Houses. —Superstition.—Form of Marriage.—Appearance.—Who are the Nabajos?—Speculation —Mr. Gregg's Opinion.—Are they Aztec or Toltec?—Author's Opinion.—Cañon of Chelly.—Vocabulary of Words.—The Moquis.—Position.—Their Manufactures.—Houses.—Character.—Albinos.—Zuñi.—Situation.—Inscription Rock.—Leave fort Defiance.—Stampede.—Arrive in Santa Fé.—New Mexico.—Gold Mines.—Richness.—Diggings.—Silver.—Other Metals.—Wealth of Country.—Education.—Expense of Living.—Trade.—Value of Goods introduced.—Circulating Medium.—Americans in the Country.—Improvement of the People.—Conclusion -- Page 414

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